Sooner
or later, you're going to be on one
end of a tow rope. Here's how to do
it right. |
I
don't care who you are, or how good your
bike is, or how much preparation you take
- at one time or another in your dirt bikin'
life, you will be forced to have your bike
towed in. Bikes break. Face it The nature
of our sport abuses machinery beyond common
sense, so breakdowns must be considered
a fact.
Even
worse. You might have to tow someone else
in who didn't do his homework. A very close
friend of mine and I are no longer on speaking
terms because his motorcycle always broke
down - and I had to tow him back almost
every time we took a trail ride.
Which
means that you must look at the Art of Towing
from both ends of the rope. And towing is
an art as much of an art as bouncing off
berms or slogging up a muddy New Jersey
clay hill in a rainstorm.
Always
carry some sort of tow strap with you
when you're on a trail ride. It's no
fun pushing a bike even a half mile
or so. I use a flat strap because it's
very compact. |
Towing,
like most things in life, requires the cooperation
of both parties involved. Leave us examine
the party of the first part - the Tower.
This is the most important part of the two
parts.
We
will assume for the moment that you have
the correct equipment for the job - namely,
a rope of considerable length. Fine. Now
take this rope and affix it to a solid piece
at the rear of your bike, preferably a frame
loop, or a solid high fender bracket. Whatever
the mount you choose, make sure it is as
near the centerline of the bike as possible.
Having the rope off to one side or another
compounds the job and just about guarantees
twice the effort and some spills.
Rope
or strap? It's no contest. Rope can
cut hands (or gloves) and is harder
to hold on to. |
If
possible, try to have at least 15 feet of
free rope between the two bikes. Don't use
too much rope, as this is just inviting
snagging bushes or rocks, and perhaps getting
a wheel snarled in the towing line.
At
this point, you must make a decision. If
the distance to be towed is a short one,
then you should have the Towee use a quick
release method of holding the rope. This
way, he can let the rope go if something
goes wrong.
If
you have a long distance to cover, then
tying the rope directly to the steering
head is the only way to go. Often, the number
plate will have to be removed to effect
this. Do it. That number plate is not going
to help you at this stage. If a headlight
is in the way of the rope, it can usually
be pivoted out of the way by loosening a
few bolts, then retightening. If it can't
be, then take the damn thing off.
Got
a headlight or number plate in the way? |
One
additional thing to be considered: Even
if the distance to be towed is a long one,
if the terrain is especially tough, use
a quick release technique. Better safe than
scraped - to coin a phrase.
Now,
to the quick release techniques. Probably
the most sensible method is to run the rope
under the bars right next to the nut on
top of the steering head. This is the centerline
of the towed bike. Then, run the line over
to the left side grip (not the right side)
and loop it around twice near the base of
the grip.
When
this is done properly, the pressure exerted
by one thumb should be more than enough
to keep it in place firmly.
Move
the light (or plate) out of the way.
This will give you a cleaner path to
route the tow strap. |
If
trouble occurs, all that is needed is a
raising of the thumb and the rope should
snake itself out.
Check
for potential hang-ups or snarls when you
run the rope to the grip. If the rope is
too tight under the bars, then re-route
it. If there are any knots in the rope,
take them out.
The
biggest reason for using the left side is
that you want to have full control of the
front brake if it's needed. This leaves
your right hand free. Secondly, if the rope
is wrapped around the right grip, it might
pull the throttle housing over center and
yank the rope out of your hand. You want
a solid base - not a rotating base.
You
are now ready to tow - once you remember
a few basic rules.
1.
Always attempt to keep both bikes vertical.
2. Let the towed bike slow both bikes
down.
3. Keep constant tension on the rope.
4. When making a turn, try to coast
through it rather than power through
it.
5. Never apply power when one bike is
out of line with the other.
6. Do everything smoothly - don't snap
that line.
7. Always look back to see if the Towee
is still there. |
Wrong!
Don't route the strap off to the side.
In this case, the speedo on this XR
would simply get badly tweaked and the
bike would be pulled off-center. Run
the tow strap as close to the center
of the steering head as possible. |
To
get under way on smooth ground, stretch
the rope taut between the two machines,
then smoothly pull off. As soon as possible,
quit slipping the clutch and shift up early.
Remember, there is a bike behind the tow
bike and a spinning knobby throws up lotsa
crud.
Keep
your speed down, but not too far down. It's
much easier to tow at 20 miles an hour than
it is at five miles an hour. However, 40
miles an hour can be pure terror on anything
less than a smooth road.
If
the ground you're starting in is very rough,
or deep mud or sand, it may be necessary
for the Towee to assist the Tower. Hop off
the bike and get alongside, pushing as needed.
When the Tower can quit slipping his clutch,
hop quickly aboard. If the tow bike threatens
to lug, paddle with both feet to ease the
strain. You want to get the lead bike hooked
up with the earth as soon as you can.
After
you route the strap next to the steering
head and then run it up next to the
handlebar clamps, run the strap over
to the grip and simply lay it across
the grip. It's not necessary to wrap
it around the grip. |
Once
the mass of the two bikes is rolling, it's
fairly easy to keep it rolling. If you come
to an obstacle that looks like it might
stop you, it can often be ridden over with
a quick trip to a lower gear and some revs
from the tow bike. Both riders should get
up on the pegs for this kind of trickery.
If there are any doubts as to the ability
of either rider to cope with this kind of
a situation, then get off and push the bike
across.
Having
towed many a bike out of the wilderness,
I can testify that some genuinely ratty
landscape can be moved across quite easily
if both riders pay attention to the business
at hand.
Remember,
the first bike has to do most of the work
and the second bike will have a constant
force applied at the steering head, making
the bike run truer than if it was under
its own power.
Simply
holding the palm of your hand over the
strap is enough to keep it in place.
Not that we're no using the throttle
side. If I have to tell you why, you're
too stupid to ride a bike. |
The
person being towed should not attempt to
make too many corrections. More often than
not, the lead bike will straighten out everything.
Just get up on the pegs and attempt to use
some body lean whenever you can. Don't play
with the bars. It simply won't do any good
at all. Waggle the bars too much, and the
front end probably will plow severely.
If
you do fall, my advice to you is to yell
loudly as soon as you can. Often, the Tower
will not be aware of the loss of the Towee.
When
going down a hill, or slowing - let the
towed bike do the slowing and stopping.
By smooth application of the rear brake,
coming to a halt should be no sweat. If
you need to stop much quicker than by this
method, my advice to you is to jump off.
Whatever.
If
you get into a problem situation, simply
lift your palm off the grip and extend
your fingers; the strap will slip free. |
One
problem rears its ugly head. Let's say
you do not have the official and desirable "hunk-a-rope."
What then?
Use
your imagination. Tie downs make a fair
towing device. So do belts. But let's assume,
for a moment, that you are 26 miles from
the nearest rock and you want to tow your
friend in. Because neither one of you had
the foresight of a butterfly, you have no
tow rope and no belts.
Fear
not. Take a long hard look at the disabled
bike. It's fairly bristling with things
that can scavenged to make a link between
two bikes. That chain, for example, is almost
six feet long on the average motorcycle.
And those control cables are each about
three feet long - and very strong.
If
you're going to be towed for a long
distance over relatively smooth terrain,
you can simply tie the strap (or rope)
on to the top triple clamp. |
Let's
see . . . six feet of chain, three feet
of throttle cable and three feet of clutch
cable. That should be enough for the job.
Do not expect to use the cables again, however,
unless you are a very optimistic person.
A
few hints: If you have flat tires or damaged
wheels in addition to not being able to
run, then modify your body position while
you're being towed in. If that front tire
is flat, get your weight well back and let
the damaged tire roll easier. Reverse the
process for the other wheel.
One
last item - always carry a tow rope somewhere
on your bike. But not where a friend of
mine did once. He had it taped to his swingarm
and it came loose one day. You wouldn't
believe the mess. |
